1. Helmet
The number one most important piece of kit is obviously YOUR HELMET! It’s very important to get the right helmet for you according to your head size and comfort of the helmet. If you plan on getting into mountain biking in any big way, you’re going to be heading out on spins for several hours at a time. Thus it is very important that your helmet both fits well and is comfortable.
Unfortunately it is not really possible to recommend helmets as a helmet that might feel comfortable and fit my head may not do the same for you. Thus it is very important to try on as many helmets as possible until you find the right fit.
Spot the mtb helmets
Well you’re in the bike shop looking at the helmets, where do you start? Start with the mtb helmets obviously! How you tell the difference (if the shop does not have them categorised), is by looking at which helmets have peaks/visors. Now it is true that road helmet can have peaks and some mtb helmets have none, but generally speaking it’s usually mtb helmets that have peaks. Some road helmets have removable peaks as these peaks can obscure vision when the rider is in a more aerodynamic position on the bike, i.e. his or her head is lower.
Other differences between road and mtb helmets
Another major difference between road and MTB helmets is that mtb helmets have vents designed to keep you cool at lower speeds. Road helmets are designed to be more aerodynamic and to have optimal air flow at higher speeds. Road helmets are also very often lighter than mtb helmets.
Can’t I just use a road helmet?
Of course you can! However, the peaks on mtb helmets are great for keeping branches and twigs out of eyes. The peaks are also a life saver if you have the misfortune of having what’s called a ‘face plant’. In this case the helmet can mean the difference between loosing teeth and just chipping a tooth. Yes this really happened to me. Of course if you find yourself falling over the handles bars a lot, you need to invest in a full face helmet.
Also a lot of mtb helmets are bulkier and seem to offer that bit more protection. But if you spent a fortune on a lovely Armstrong lightweight road helmet, then of course you can use it, but I would recommend an mtb helmet for mtb activities.
What to look for in a helmet?
- Well the number one factor would obviously be safety and protection. All helmets on the market have a safety minimum standards they have to meet but some are obviously safer than others. For example some the skateboard style helmets cover more of the back of your head.
- Does it fit properly? Be sure that it doesn’t move side to side and fits snugly with little movement. A lot of better quality helmets have adjustable sections at the back to allow your tighten the helmet to your head. It's very important when riding that the helmet is snug and the strap is fastened and also snug.
- Comfort. That small little annoyance of some part of the helmet irritating your head can turn into a huge annoyance after a hour or two in the saddle! So try on helmets a few times and for a few minutes at a time before buying!
Helmet checklist:
- Does it fit front to back?
- Does it fit side to side (correct width for your head with no movement)?
- Does it adjust easily to fit my head?
- Is the padding inside comfortable?
- Is the padding secured well to the helmet, will it fall off?
- Is the peak removable?
- Does the helmet manufacturer have a crash replacement policy?
- Is the chin strap comfortable and easily adjustable?
Do I need spend a lot of money on a helmet?
No is the short answer. Remember all helmets have to meet minimum safety standards. With some of the very expensive helmets you are paying extra for weight saving, for carbon fibre pieces or for extra padding inside.
Still having trouble picking a helmet?
If you can’t choose or simply can’t find one that fits right, then ask some other bikers to recommend some helmets and even try theirs on. I have had the misfortune (or fotune depending on how you look at it) of cracking a few helmets in crashes and falls, which are all part of the sport unfortunately. In my experience Met and Giro helmets are very good and comfortable.
Below is list of helmets I have owned at some stage and none of which I would have anything bad to say about:
- MET Parachute
- Giro Hex
- Met Veleno
2. Gloves
These are pretty important, especially in winter! Now unfortunately your normal winter woollies are not suitable as they would wear out pretty quick and the grip would be terrible.
Why gloves are important
I have to admit that back in the day, I didn’t wear any gloves when on my bike, while cycling round the hills. Not in summer anyway. What I found was I would get a nasty numb feeling and sometimes pins and needles on the left side of each palm and up my arm. Apparently there are two nerves that run through that part of your palm and prolonged cycling without gloves can damage them. When I found this out I quickly invested in a pair of gel insert gloves. The gel inserts help protect that sensitive area of the palm from vibration and impact.
Another important feature of cycling glove is the grips on the fingers. It’s important that your fingers don’t slip when trying to apply the brakes.
Another feature of the higher-end gloves would be the the hardshell knuckle protectors. These help reduce impact on your knuckles if you happend to crash or if you are like me and often collide with trees.
Fingerless gloves are fine in winter but it’s well worth investing in a good pair of weather-proof gloves for the winter. There is nothing worse than being at the top of a mountain with soaking wet and freezing cold hands when you know if have to cycle back down again.
3. Protective Glasses
These are quite important, especially on Irish trail which have a lot of mud. I actually got a black eye one time while out night-biking as I had taken off my clear glasses, which were fogging up, and ended up getting a lump of mud smack me right in the left eye. So don’t forget those glasses!
I have found that glasses with inter-changeable lenses are best, with dark lenses for sunny conditions and clear for dark conditions. Or you can buy the more expensive type which automatically get darker when exposed to strong sunlight, called Photochromic. These are great as they save you having to stop and change your lenses. The more expensive glasses also have better anti-fog, anti-streak and scratch resistance properties.
4. Pump and Puncture Repair Kit
Punctures are unfortunately part and parcel of cycling - less so if you have tubeless tyres. A good pump is important although you can get away with a mini-pump with mountain bikes as they run with less pressure than road bike tyres.
5. Cycle Shorts
The more you cycle, the more important a good pair of cycle shorts becomes. The padding in these shorts obviously helps make the ride in the saddle more comfortable and the modern synthetic materials help keep you dry.
